Marsha Nelson

I based my project around how clothes can be adapted by the wearer to find a fit in various positions, rather than the garment fitting the wearer the wearer can adapt the style that pleases them. It can grow and move around the frame of the body.

My concept began from my interest in plus size women’s wear market which I have found to be quite limited in the variety of materials, silhouettes and fabrics used. I wanted to explore why the fashion industry overlooked the diversity of shapes and sizes of women, focusing mainly on very slim, model like figures. 

I have researched body ideals from around the world and their attitude towards the perception of beauty. Different cultures seem to conform to the western ideas of beauty as a marker to measure against. This can create mental and physical harm, through bleaching, plastic surgery and anorexia. This is also exacerbated by advertising and the media and the fashion industry. 

My collection will look at how fashion can be for all and not determined by the size you are. Starting from a rectangular shaped piece of fabric, I will use this as a base to shroud/wrap the human form. Looking back at cultures who have used a flat piece of cloth to make kaftans, capes, ponchos whether for protection, warmth or for ceremony for inspiration. Creating drawstring channels to define shaping with minimal fastenings, 

I started experimenting with cotton fabric sewing a series of drawstring channels, then placing on multiple positions on the body and pulling and creating tension to fit a shoulder, waist or armhole. Also using different weighted materials to test the drape and the condition of the material after it has been pulled and fastened, checking for fraying or damage.

My colour choice of fabric will be striped as I enjoy the directional element of how one plain starts and another ends. Stripes are usually worn vertically to elongate the body, I would like to change the ‘rules’ that stripes shouldn’t be worn vertically if you’re a heavy set body type. Stripes are integral part of the design of Paul Smith and Missoni and Adidas are instantly recognisable as their signature brands. I have always been attracted to outlines and graphics and framing things within boxes as a focus to show the item.

My collection would be better presented in a small private setting where the multiple positions can be shown in sequence, rather than a large catwalk as it is time limited the changes may be lost in translation while in motion. If an item is to be demonstrated with put arm here or put head here it would be best to do this while stationery and have the show move around the clothes.

Other artists in the field who I would consider to be competitors in my field would be Kei Ninomiya who uses modular construction to create volume and form around the body. Another contemporary is Comme Des Garcon their style is more about the emotion and tonality than just creating a pretty garment.